The complete guide to germinating cannabis seeds
Before you can be met with bountiful hauls of dank buds, there are several stages of cannabis growing that take precedence. Unless you can successfully germinate cannabis seeds, you won’t have a plant to harvest. Give your seeds the best possible start in life by reading our definitive guide to germination.
THE ART OF GERMINATING CANNABIS SEEDS
Often overlooked, it is all too easy to assume that the vegetative and flowering stages of cannabis growth are the most critical parts of the plant’s life cycle. However, with the chance of failure high unless you know what you’re doing, poor planning when it comes to germination can make or break your next grow. Giving your cannabis seeds the best possible start on their journey to bulging buds is a surefire way to encourage a healthy and robust plant.
Small, fragile, and in desperate need of a helping hand, there are several ways you can germinate your cannabis seeds. All methods have varying degrees of success, with both advantages and disadvantages. It is important to note that even with advanced growing expertise and top-of-the-line equipment, you may still end up with a few failed seeds. This is a natural part of dealing with a living organism. At Royal Queen seeds, we only sell feminized cannabis seeds, so there is no need to worry about removing male plants.
WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR IN CANNABIS SEEDS
Regardless of where you get your seeds from, it is best to give them a slight (and delicate) inspection before planting. Most of the time, all seeds will germinate; however, poor-quality seeds will produce a weaker plant. Unfortunately, that is something you will not find out until well into the vegetative and flowering stages.
To avoid disappointment, seeds that have a darker colouration stand a better chance of germinating, while pale green or white seeds are likely to fail. Even if dark seeds look slightly damaged, they should be planted anyway. There is a good chance they will still germinate, even if the outer shell is somewhat crushed.
GERMINATION TEMPERATURE PLAYS A CRUCIAL ROLE
Before we jump straight into the germination methods, there are a couple of germination golden rules. For the best results, we recommend staying within these guidelines, no matter how you choose to germinate. That being said, of all the factors to consider, temperature is one of the most critical. Seeds will always seek out even the smallest amount of moisture, but they use temperature as a sign that they need to do so.
• The ideal temperature is between 22° and 25°C (71–77°F)
• Your growing environment should be damp/moist, but never wet
• Relative humidity range should be between 70% and 90%
• Seeds favour fluorescent lighting (Cool White code 33)
• Minimise the amount of seed handling you do
• In hydroponic/rockwool plugs, the ideal PH value is 5.8–6.2
WHAT IS AN EXPECTED GERMINATION TIME?
Three fundamental principles will trigger that first small taproot to appear: warmth, moisture, and darkness. With the promise of moisture, a single root will take shape before slowly developing into the cannabis plant we know and love. In the right conditions, seeds will begin to develop within 12–36 hours of moisture being introduced to them.
Timescales can vary, as it all depends on how ideal your germination environment is (see the golden rules above). Even the worst grower could make a seed germinate, but it may take a few weeks and, of course, increases the risk of a weaker plant.
CHOOSING YOUR GERMINATION METHOD
GLASS OF WATER APPROACH
Arguably one of the least effective methods, but it is still viable. Incredibly simple to facilitate, beginner growers may opt to germinate their seeds in a glass of water. Half-fill a glass or bowl with water that is approximately 22°C (71°F).
After 3–5 days, the seeds will start to open, and you should see tiny white tips appear. Once these roots reach 2–3mm in length, use extreme care to transfer them from the water to pre-prepared soil pots.
The soil pots will need small holes (roughly 10–15mm deep) for the newly germinated seeds to be placed into. Once the seeds are secure, you will want to place a fluorescent light 13–15cm (5–6 inches) away to encourage growth. Finally, don’t risk overwatering your seeds at this early stage. Use a plant mister to make sure they stay damp but not soaking wet.
WET KITCHEN TOWEL METHOD
Probably one of the most common methods of germination. The kitchen towel method comes in several iterations. Some growers use cotton wool pads or absorbent pieces of paper. For this guide, we will be using kitchen towel as it is readily available and holds moisture relatively well.
Place one sheet of damp kitchen towel on a flat surface. Space your seeds a few centimetres apart before placing the second piece of kitchen towel over the top. You need to ensure both pieces are damp, not wet. Once again, when the white root tips reach 2–3mm, move the seeds (carefully) to soil pots. Use the same guidance found above for planting techniques.
PLANTING DIRECTLY INTO SOIL
Planting directly into your growing medium prevents having to move seeds when they are at their most fragile. That first root tip is covered with microscopic filaments that are easily damaged. Given that both a cup full of water and moist paper towels are more prone to temperature fluctuations from their environment, planting in soil is a much safer option.
Start by filling pots with a premium-quality soil that has been soaked in water. Many growers also choose to lace the water with a root stimulator. Make a hole roughly 10–15mm deep. This will be your seed’s new home. Remove the seeds from their packet and place them into the pre-dug holes. Loosely cover the seeds, but be careful not to compress the soil above the seed too much. The root will struggle to penetrate solid soil, slowing plant growth. Lightly spray the top of where you placed the seed so that your growing medium stays moist.
If you don’t like the idea of pre-soaking your soil, you can use a spray to moisten the holes before you plant each seed. With enough moisture surrounding your seeds, you can still encourage a root to develop.
Your growing pots will need to be placed in a damp climate that is within the temperature range listed under our golden rules. After 4–10 days, you should see a young seedling sprout, while the roots will have begun to develop underneath the soil. The entire plant and its soil can now be transferred to a larger pot, where normal growing routines should start.
USING STONE WOOL BLOCKS
Maintaining the ideal temperature (between 22–25°C/71–77°F) and moisture for germination is tricky. Leaving seeds out in the open environment or on a windowsill is far from ideal; a DIY climate-controlled cupboard would do a much better service. A warming mat is perfect for maintaining a constant temperature, but it doesn’t tackle the issue of moisture.
You will need to invest in a few pieces of unique equipment, but by using stone wool blocks, you can create a perfect utopia for germinating cannabis seeds. Soak the stone wool blocks in the same way you would a soil medium. The wool will retain the moisture and prevent the need to water during the early stages of germination. After the wool blocks are soaked, stick them in a plastic tray that also has a lid. Large cake tubs are ideal.
The dome of the plastic container will create your seeds’ own mini tropical climate. If you then place all the components in a temperature-controlled cupboard, you will have created a self-perpetuating supply of moisture—no need to touch the seeds again until they are ready to be transferred to your final growing medium as a young seedling. Using the stone wool block method, your seeds should germinate in one to two days.
Two or three weeks after germination, your young seedlings should be ready for their new home. At this point you have two options; transplanting them into soil pots, or taking on the challenge of hydroponics. You’ll know when the seedlings are ready to be moved because the root system should start to poke out of the bottom of the wool blocks. As long as the roots haven’t begun to engulf the bottom half of the wool block, they will seek out water and nutrients in their new surroundings and continue to grow downwards.
ROYAL QUEEN SEEDS FEMINIZED STARTER KIT
There is, of course, a far simpler way to germinate seeds. Ideal for beginners, the feminized starter kit by Royal Queen Seeds has everything you need to kick-start your next cannabis project.
The Royal Queen Seeds Feminized Starter Kit contains:
- 3x RQS Critical feminized seeds
- 20x Easy-Start seedling pots
- 1x Propagator Pro
- 1x pack of Bacto
- 1x perlite
- 1x fluorescent lights
- 1x instruction manual
- 4x AA batteries
- 1x Royal Queen Seeds catalogue
*You will also need a measuring cup and a stirrer (not included in the kit).
1. Gently remove the foil from the back of the seed packet and place them carefully into a dry container.
2. You will need a shallow container that is large enough to accommodate the seed tray. Fill the container with one litre of lukewarm water (22–25°C/71–77°F). Pour in the packet of Bacto enzyme, allowing it to dissolve before setting the seed tray into the container to soak. The seed tray only needs to be immersed for 5–10 seconds. Do not discard the Bacto mixture after the seed tray has been soaked.
3. After removing the seed tray from your shallow container, poke a 10–15mm deep hole into the soil of each pot, and delicately transfer your seeds from their dry container into each hole. Remember, one seed per pot.
4. Using the supplied propagator, sprinkle a 15mm-thick layer of perlite into the bottom of the tray.
5. Place your seed tray into the propagator, adjust the walls, and position the lid. The lid comes with an on/off switch for the already-attached lights.
6. Check the water level in your reservoir once a day. Your aim is to maintain an even level. After 1–7 days, the seeds should have sprouted, with visible leaves appearing. Once the seedling is 3mm tall, transfer it to your final growing medium.
IF IN DOUBT, THINK SPRINGTIME CONDITIONS
No matter which method you choose, always think about what conditions would naturally be like in spring. In their natural environment, cannabis seeds would start to sprout in-line with the seasonal change from winter to spring. Moisture is still high, and temperatures will be naturally rising. Always ask yourself the question, “Does my germination setup replicate spring conditions”. If the answer is yes, there is a good chance germination will be a success.
Прошло уже несколько недель, и благодаря одному из приведённых выше методов, мы успешно вырастили несколько растений.
Mandala Seeds places great emphasis on the quality of the seed stock. We guarantee that the seeds from all products are fresh and viable when they are dispatched to resellers and customers. Seeds harvested from each mother plant are checked for optimal germination rates before they are approved for sale! In large tests (1000 or more) our seeds achieve a germination rate of 99,6%. Our seed stock is refreshed every 6-12 months! Therefore seed vendors and customers can be certain to purchase and store viable seeds at any time.
Germinating cannabis seeds is not difficult.
We provide the basic information and many hot tips on what is important to support you in having a successful start!
Understanding Risks of Pre-Germination
Due to our high standard of pollination, attentive grow methods, and the dedicated hand selection of seed stock for sales, our seeds are always perfectly matured and can be quite large. They also possess a particularly intact and hard seed hull. The robust genetics of our cannabis varieties, and our innovative Deluxe seed production methods, leads to the development of healthy and strong seeds with a good resistance against environmental factors. Due to the firm seed hull and large size some of our seeds may require a slightly longer germination time. Most seeds sprout in record time and others take a bit longer. Once the seedling grows through the substrate it will develop quickly and vigorously regardless of the germination time.
For an optimal germination result the seeds should be planted DIRECTLY into the substrate. We clearly advise against using pre-germination methods or soaking. Please do not place the seeds into a glass of water or in moist paper tissues.
This does not mean that pre-soaking should never be used with seeds from other sources, or that we criticize growers who prefer this method. We are aware that some breeders recommend it for their products. But to prevent complications and achieve the consistent level of high germination rates that you should be getting from your Mandala seeds please trust our advice and follow our guidelines.
Please take note that customers who soak their Mandala seeds in water or wet paper tissue do so at their own risk. We are not accountable for any failure in germination or complications caused by this method.
Fresh and healthy seeds prefer a nurturing and airy substrate to germinate in – just as mother nature has meant it to be. Cannabis is a plant species originating from semi-arid and temperate biotopes and the vast majority of modern cannabis hybrids contain a substantial percentage of these genetics. Cannabis seeds are not adapted to swampy wetlands, but they are suited for germinating in well drained soil/substrate. In nature they rot if they fall into a puddle of water. and there are no paper tissues lying around either. Taking into account these botanical facts, it is quite logical that by creating germination conditions that are similar to those of the natural habitat you can expect the best results.
What happens if one uses pre-germination methods?
Soaking seeds in water/wet paper towels is a method which can be used for old seeds (3+ years) that are drying up and losing germination power; and for pure land race equatorial strains such as from Africa. Both factors do not apply to our seeds. Fresh seeds have a healthy embryo whose cells are filled with water. But excess water causes the cells to bloat, depletes oxygen and leads to the tissue rotting away before the seed embryo can germinate. Old seeds have lost water in the cell tissue, the embryo starts to shrivel, which is why germination rates drop the older the seeds are. Therefore, old seeds (ie. 3+ years) can soak up more water before adverse conditions cause them to rot. This is one of the main reasons why various seed stock reacts differently to pre-germination methods. Some growers make the mistake of soaking our seeds in water for up to 1-2 days because it may have worked in the past with other seeds. This does not mean, however, that this method can be used for all seeds. In fact, old stock or equatorial cannabis seeds should only be soaked in water for a few hours at the most. Always consult the web site of a seed bank for specific advice and instructions on how to germinate their seeds.
It is in a growers best interest to choose a germination method with the lowest risk of complications. Because we want customers to have the highest success rate possible we recommend the most convenient and safest method. This does not mean it is the only option. We simply believe it carries the lowest risk for germinating fresh seeds. Planting seeds directly in the substrate is also the most plant friendly method for any type of seed stock. The reasons are explained below in paragraph 2 & 3.
Placing healthy & fresh seeds in water/wet tissue can lead to the development of fungi or bacteria on the seed hull. Lack of oxygen and contaminating substances in the water/wet tissue promote fungal growth which can be transported to the substrate later on. Often the seed simply rots away if left for too long in a glass of water, or wrapped up in wet tissue.
Once the seed sprouts in a glass of water or paper tissue it already has the taproot growing out of the cracked seed hull. While transplanting the germinated seed it is very difficult, indeed impossible, to prevent damage to the delicate taproot. Many sprouted seedlings handled in this way show retarded development, or even simply fail to appear out of the substrate after transplantation. Handling seedlings this way can impair the health & vigour of the plant for the duration of it’s life cycle – especially if other disturbing factors occur during the early stages of growth.
Professional horticulturists rarely use pre-germination methods to actually grow out the seedlings because of the shock suffered from transplanting them. For example, we use the paper tissue method only as a quick test for germination rates of aged seed stock from our genetic repository. This allows us to see beforehand how many seeds we have to put in soil to get the amount of plants we require for breeding projects.
We work with distributors who enjoy the best reputation in the industry for professional storage and service. Our resellers are supplied by us directly or through our distributors. Although we make an effort to identify any black sheep in the cannabis seeds market it is impossible for us to monitor resellers all the time.
Customers should make sure that they receive their seeds in the original Mandala Seeds packaging to prevent fraud. We cannot guarantee authenticity for seeds that have been removed from the sealed Mandala packaging. When you purchase our seeds from a reseller you should receive 1st class seeds: mature, healthy colouring, with well-defined mottled skin. If you get seeds that are tiny, greenish/yellow, scuffed, or immature, these are not original Mandala Seeds!
We are not responsible for the sales and services offered by resellers. However, if you have any serious suspicion or complaint regarding your purchase please contact us with a copy of your order transaction and reseller details. The order must not be older than 2 months from date of purchase. We do not replace seeds on an individual basis. Replacements are only processed officially via the distributer, in the event of a faulty or damaged shipment sent out to the distributor and subsequently sold to the reseller.
How to Germinate your Mandala Seeds
Please use high quality soil that is suitable for seedlings (see our SOIL GUIDE for more info), or use rockwool starter cubes for germinating seeds.
Do not use jiffy’s/peat pellets: the acidic pH of pure peat can inhibit germination of cannabis seeds. Results are unreliable and depend on manufacturers, some add limestone to raise pH, some do not. Growers have also experienced problems using rapid rooter plugs (with various types of cannabis seeds). Any growing medium used for germination must also have the correct pH for cannabis seeds.
For optimal results we advise against the use of jiffy’s, peat pellets, and rooter plugs. If you are absolutely keen on using such products you should at least test the product first with a few expendable cannabis seeds before sowing your valuable seed collection.
Take 8-10 cm/3-4” (diameter) pots or a seedling tray and fill with quality potting soil. Press the soil slightly down and make a 1,5 cm/0,6” deep hole with a pencil or finger. Place the seed in a horizontal position in the hole (this is the easiest method). Fill the hole and gently tap down the soil. Use chlorine free water (preferably good mineral water without gas) with a pH of 6-6.5 to water the pots. The soil should be uniformly moist and properly watered, but not soggy or waterlogged. The pots or tray should also not stand in a tray filled with water. Use a spoon or small beaker to dosage properly if you are unsure and want to avoid accidentally overwatering the soil. Put the pots or tray at a warm location and ideally under lighting. Temperatures at 25°C/75°F or higher accelerate germination. Take care that the soil does not dry out and that the pots don’t stand in the cold (ie. at or under 21°C/70°F). Misting the soil surface with water spray is not effective. You should water the pots properly if the soil surface dries up. Within 3-7 days the seedlings should appear out of the soil. You can switch on your lamps during germination to provide warmth or when the first seedlings appear. Since they might also grow out of the soil during the night it’s best to have lighting switched on 24 hrs.
Immerse the rockwool cubes in lukewarm water with a pH of 5.6-5.8 until the rockwool is evenly wet. Overnight soaking is not required for starter cubes. Let the water drip off. squeeze lightly to assist. Place the seed in a horizontal position into the hole (this is the easiest method). The taproot can grow downwards assisted by gravity. Alternatively, you can also place the seed into the hole vertically with the rounded end facing up (cannabis seeds sprout by opening the shell at the pointy end where the taproot grows out). Cover the hole with a small piece of rockwool. Choose a fluffy piece of rockwool. you don’t want to tightly plug the hole because the seedling has to grow out with ease. Water the rockwool cubes with a weak nutrient solution of 10-15% of the recommended dosage (or EC 0,6) and pH 5.6-5.8. You can also germinate using pure water. Put the rockwool cubes at a warm location. Temperatures at 25°C/75°F or higher accelerate germination. Take care that the rockwool cubes do not dry out or stand in the cold (i.e. at or under 21°C/70°F). They should also not sit in water. Usually the cubes require to be moistened with pH adjusted water every 1-2 days. Use chlorine free water such as mineral water. Within 3-5 days the seedlings should appear out of the cubes.
Hot tip: to prevent the cubes from sitting in water put some perlite at the bottom of the tray for drainage.
You can switch on your lamps during germination to provide warmth or when the first seedlings appear. Since they might also grow out of the cubes during the night it’s best to have lighting switched on 24 hrs.
IMPORTANT: Don’t cover pots with plastic wrap, don’t use a humidity dome to seal off the pots, or place pots/rockwool cubes in a propagator that’s completely covered! This prevents fresh air exchange, raises humidity to excess levels, and easily facilitates the spread of fungus. The seeds will rot before they can germinate. Excess humidity combines with lack of oxygen is the #1 cause for poor germination results!
If you germinate your seeds at room temperature, and have properly watered the substrate, there is no need to be concerned that it will dry out overnight. Only the substrate requires sufficient water for the seeds to germinate – the outside humidity can and should be be low to moderate (i.e. max. 55%). Low humidity in the room does not interfere with germination or healthy seedling growth.
Remember: cannabis is not an orchid! Fungal spores are everywhere: in the air, in substrates, . and they await the conditions to spread and attack organic substances such as seeds or the roots. Common fungal infections are pythium and fusarium. Young seedlings are also prone to such infections because their cell tissue is very soft. Over-watering and/or high humidity trigger such diseases like “damping off” which quickly kills seedlings.
Heating mats should be avoided unless you need it in the wintertime. A dysfunctional heating mat, or a mistake in the temperature control, can easily boil the seeds or dry up the substrate and shrivel the freshly emerging seedling. Your pots/rockwool cubes should be placed in a space with ambient room temperature (ie. 24-26°C/75-78°F). In the winter use a small electric or gas heater to warm up your grow space. You can also switch on the HPS lamp and put the pots at a close distance underneath.
A #1 seed killer is a closed humidity dome/mini-greenhouse.
Humidity domes are only required for rooting cuttings.
Many growers make the mistake of thinking that they need a high ambient humidity for germination or seedlings. This is an unfortunate myth of cannabis cultivation. The high humidity and lack of fresh ventilation quickly causes fungus in the soil or growing medium and the seeds can rot!
Cannabis is not an orchid or swamp plant! The seeds need a well aerated growing medium to germinate well. Seedlings also cannot tolerate high humidity and can easily be attacked by fungus such as fusarium and pythium. Only the soil or growing medium should be moist for optimal germination and seedling growth. Ambient humidity is best at or below 50%.
You can use a humidity dome/mini-greenhouse as a tray for germination but you must keep the lid half-way open or completely seperate to ensure fresh air exchange and humidity levels at or below 50%.
Example of a Safe Set-Up
This Indoor Grow Garden includes reusable trays that can grow the plants for a week until transplanting into a bigger pot. The trays sit beneath 2x2ft 24W fluorescent bulbs for healthy growth. This setup provides light & warmth, it also ensures that fresh air & average humidity levels prevent negative factors from disturbing germination. The lights are housed in the canopy of a sturdy aluminium stand that has an adjustable height (up to 38cm H from base) and a reflective hood to maximize usable light. There are many different models of fluorescent or CFL fixtures on the market to suit every taste and budget. Give seedlings maximum light to prevent stretching and support fast development. Use additional light from a window if available. For best results we recommend HPS lamps from the start. A 70-150W HPS lamp does not use more electricity than standard CFL lamps but provides much more lumens (light intensity). If you are growing with 250-600W HPS then you should germinate or put your seedlings under the lamp as soon as possible to ensure quick and vigorous growth.
Things to avoid
- soaking seeds in water/wet paper tissue
- humidity dome/mini-greenhouse fully covered
- heating mat too hot
- covering pots with plastic
- germinating in jiffy’s and peat pellets
- wrong soil for germination
- fertilizing seedlings
- too much/too little water
- cold and dark germination room
- cold outdoor temperatures; frost
- wrong pH of water
- bad water quality
- high EC of nutrient solution in hydroponics
- spraying seedlings with water/organic teas/pesticides
Tips for Germinating & Planting Outdoor
There are various handy gardening items that protect seeds and seedlings from the cold, wind, and pests. Seeds can be sown outdoor if the daytime temperature is above 20°C/68°F and well above freezing at nighttime. The higher the temperature the faster the seeds can germinate and the less prone they will be to fungus (which especially loves cold and damp conditions). If you are in a cold climate and want to start early, but do not have a heated greenhouse, it is best to either germinate indoor or at least move the cups/tray inside for the night. Seedlings and sown seeds require protection from pests and insects. Ants and birds can be quite diligent in stealing seeds out of the soil for example. We have compiled some of the most common techniques and supplies for outdoor gardening. These items can either be purchased online or at garden supply centers.
Portable cold frames are great for protecting germinating seeds or seedlings. They can be moved to the sunniest spots in your garden or carried indoor. This is a standard model with polythene and wooden frame. The adjustable lid let’s you regulate heat and humidity.
A state-of the-art cold frame that can be used at the beginning of the growing season to insulate tender seedlings when outdoor temperatures drop too low. The UV resistant polycarbonate is as clear as glass panels and virtually unbreakable. Two easily adjustable, fully removable lid panels allow for variable ventilation and easy access from both sides, which are also held securely when closed.
This robust & portable 1m x 50cm Mini Garden combines the benefits of a raised bed propagator and cold frame into one to allow convenient growing from seed in an outdoor space. The large inside area and numerous vents enable easier control of humidity levels and temperature. The bottom tray can be raised up or down. There is enough height to accomodate seedlings and young plants.
A simple low-cost cloche is very handy if you need to transport the pots from inside to outside daily.
This thermal twin-walled UV stabilised polypropylene cloche is a standard model for outdoor that offers basic protection against pests, wind and rain. You can easily lift it and put it aside by grasping the top handle.
A longgrow super cloche has a rugged steel frame covered with corrugated PVC. It withstands extreme weather and is therefore a good choice for protecting seedlings if you are growing in an area with stormy weather during springtime. The ventilation is regulated by circular panels at the rear ends.
High grade (30 gsm) polypropylene fleece covers these easy tunnels, creating warmth and insulation whilst allowing water and sunlight to filter through – a constant atmosphere is maintained for faster, even growth and protection against frost, strong sunlight and pests.
A practical solution is offered by this portable and easily assembled lean-to greenhouse. It has a heavy-duty galvanised steel framework with zip-on and zip-off heavy-duty UV stabilised PVC covers. The greenhouse is ideal for propagating and hardening off young plants and offers essential protection from frost, weather conditions and pests.
Within 3-7 days the seedlings should appear out of the soil/rockwool cubes.
Provide sufficient light. Seedlings require sufficient light (this applies to the strength and length of daylight or artificial light) and fresh air to grow. Switch on your lamp(s) as soon as the first seedlings appear at the latest. Seedlings should be moved directly under a HPS lamp if you have one. The more light your provide the better your plants can grow. Not all Mandala strains are suited for low light such as CFL lamps and fluorescents. Make sure you choose the right strain for your lights.
As soon as the first pair of leaves grow on the seedlings transplant them into 14-16 cm/5,5-6,5” pots, so that they have sufficient space for their root development and nutrients. You can also choose larger containers if you are confident that you will not over-water. We recommend a 4-5L/1 gallon container for the first 4 weeks of growth and subsequent period of sexing under 12/12. Repot females into larger containers after sexing. See our SOIL GUIDE for info on container sizes.
Start with a mild EC such 0.7-0.8 and slowly increase the EC of your nutrient solution after one week of growth. The best EC depends on the quality of your water and it’s basic EC level. If the water has a high EC then you should filter it with a household reverse-osmosis filter and mix this 50-50 with tap water.
Do not fertilize in the first weeks of growth on soil! This is the #1 cause for sick plants. Transplant into quality horticultural grade potting soil and bigger containers as the plants grow larger. Rootbound and sick plants should be avoided. Mandala plants grow quicker and more vigorously than most other strains. Do not let your good plants vegetate in tiny cups and cramped pots. You can get a high % of males or male flowers on your females if you do not care for your plants properly.
- Take advantage of our low prices and plant an extra 1-2 seeds if you don’t use the whole pack of 10 seeds. Although we, and the plants, do everything in our power to produce 100% viable seeds please remember this is a biological product. Therefore, even if a seed looks perfect from the outside, it can’t be prevented that a minor % of seeds does not germinate, or that the seedling is not completely healthy. That’s why it’s a good idea to have an extra seed sprouting as a back-up and then you can always select the best seedlings for your grow.
- Keep your fingers from those fertilizers and potions. Yes, it happens again and again: growers feeding their seedlings on soil with mineral or biological fertilizers & rooting products, spraying them with homemade teas, or killing them not so softly with harsh biological pesticides. Seedlings are baby plants with delicate young leaves and roots. Let’s put it this way: you don’t feed a T-bone steak to a baby. Seedlings require 3 weeks to develop into stouter and tougher plants. During this phase of development a good soil mix and decent container size provides all the nutrients they require.
- Don’t forget to check your water pH with every watering and use cheap vinegar to adjust it downwards instead of mineral salts (to prevent salt build-up). The correct pH is essential for healthy growth! For soil it should range between 6.2-6.5. In hydroponic systems start with 5.6-5.8 on fresh rockwool cubes, or 5.8-6.0 on new expanded clay pebbles if they are not pH neutral. Check the pH of drained water in hydroponics and adjust the pH as required.
- Mandala strains are unique in their high level vigor and fast growth. For optimal plant growth you don’t require to perk them up with root stimulators. The Mandala genetics already come with an inbuilt turbo boost. Root stimulators can in some cases be counterproductive. None of these products have been adequately scientifically tested on cannabis by manufacturers!
- To support the vigorous growth of our strains you should buy quality soil and choose/adjust container sizes according to the size of the plants. Repot quickly if you germinate in small cups. Rootbound plants quickly develop nitrogen deficiency and other deficiencies. “Rootbound” is a condition which exists when a potted plant has outgrown its container. The roots become entangled and matted together, and the growth of the plant becomes stunted. Rootbound plants can lead to a higher % of males and trigger male flowers on female plants!
Please note: Cannabis seeds are a biological product. We therefore do not carry responsibility for germination rates once the seeds are dispatched to the resellers or customer. The reseller and customer is responsible for proper storage and handling of seeds.
What you need to know about growing in soil, how to buy the best soil product, organic additives, etc.
Use our feature chart to compare Mandala strains and find what you are looking for quickly.
Choose the right Mandala strain for your location using a highly detailed climate guide and special info’s.
How to germinate your Mandala cannabis seeds and care for seedlings.